Alright, well I haven't blogged in a while and it's because things have been a bit busy. Work has been busy, thanks to a lot of publicity, and personal stuff has kept me pretty occupied as well. However, I'm not here to get into too much of that tonight. What I am going to say relates to the publicity mentioned before. As noted on this blog earlier, Teddy Folkman, my boss and the Executive Chef of Granville's, was chosen as a finalist for Season Five of The Next Food Network Star. For those who may not be familiar, it's a reality cooking competition show where ten finalists compete for a chance to win their own show on the Food Network.
So I've been pretty silent on the subject thus far for a number of reasons. During the actual filming of the show (January-February 2009) I kept silent because I had to. Teddy told us he was going to be filming but we weren't able to say anything. It was all very hush-hush. Which, to be fair, made me feel kind of cool to be a bit of an insider on something that big. And since it's been made public, I've mostly just been biding my time, waiting for the show to air and to see how things play out.
There's been a lot of press to cover his appearance on the show from The Washington Post to Roll Call to numerous food blogs. Too much coverage to link to here so if you're really interested in reading all of that you can just google “Teddy Folkman” and “Next Food Network Star.” What is causing me to break my silence on the issue now is the reaction to the first three episodes of the show that have aired so far.
First of all, let me just say that I am OBVIOUSLY a very biased party with regards to any commentary on the show or the contestants. Of course I think Teddy is the best and of course I'm going to root for him. So I'm mostly going to avoid commenting on other contestants because that's not really my point. What I would like to talk about is the reactions I've been getting to how Teddy is on the show. And more importantly, how they mesh with the person I know, respect, and consider a friend and mentor. For those who don't know how I met Teddy or got started at Granville's I'll just refer back to an earlier post that explains how I got into the job I have now since that handles it. No need to rehash that here.
So far the general reactions I've heard have ranged from “He's cute” (very true), “He's REALLY hyper” (also very true), “He seems sort of arrogant” (only in the way that most chefs are and need to be), “He's like a cartoon” (well, maybe he is but I have never thought of him as cartoonish) and to the more recent “He seems like a jerk” (so so untrue). Before I delve into my thoughts on the show thus far, let me say that I cannot provide any knowledge about who won. I don't know. Teddy knows but can't tell me, or anyone else for that matter, and we've even tried to weasel info from his girlfriend after she's had some wine and she can't and won't tell either. So, that said, on to my ranting.
I think it's important for people to realize that Next Food Network Star, like any reality show, is extremely edited. The cameras roll a lot but we only get to see an extremely small percentage of that on our tv screens. Much like how every drunken sorority sister on The Real Word cannot possibly be that drunk or slutty all the time in real life, neither is everyone on a reality cooking show the same person you may be led to think they are based on the almighty power of editing. That's the caveat to everything...the overarching disclaimer, if you will.
Here's where the ranting starts. I really dislike reality tv for the most part. While it is occasionally fun to get sucked into some terrible reality show (I'm looking at you “Real Housewives of...”), generally I think that tv which operates on the fundamental premise that every person fits some sort of easily recognizable character archetype is bad tv. Sure this happens on sitcoms and dramas too but those shows aren't cloaking themselves in the self-righteous mantle of “reality.” The general disdain I feel for the edited snapshot of personality provided by reality tv only becomes amplified when the subject is something I'm passionate about (food and cooking) and someone I care about.
I will admit right here that a lot of the goofier things Teddy does on tv are true to real life. Talking to a sauce and saying “reeeeeduuuce pleeeaaase” is not out of character for him. In fact, I think I've heard that exact phrased uttered in our kitchen. Getting into the mind of a crab and begging to be used in a dish is also pretty par for the course. One of the first exposures I had to Teddy was a demo video he did for the Washingtonian food blog on making blue cheese mussels in which he said the mussels need time to open up and talk to each other and then wondered what mussels said to each other...and then said he thought it'd be cool to be a “mussel whisperer.” Those parts of his personality are all extremely true. He's a goofball. It's part of what made me love having the opportunity to be in the kitchen with him 3-4 days a week when I was first starting. When you stumble in the kitchen tired and possibly hungover, someone who can make you laugh (even if it's at them and not with them) is a welcome way to ease out of the early morning doldrums.
As for the extremely hyper (and some have called it spastic) behavior that has had some of the judges saying he seems like a used car salesman, I can say that that is also somewhat true. Teddy is an upbeat guy. I remember one evening when he and I were sitting at the bar after a prep shift and he was talking about some of the questions he had to fill out on one of the many questionnaires that the Food Network sent him. One question was the standard “How would your friends and family describe you?” He asked me what I would say and I thought for a minute and came up with, “Like a hamster on cocaine.”
The guy has energy. Infectious energy. I'm normally a high-strung head case but being in the kitchen calms me. The kitchen is the one place I've always been able to feel confident, happy, and at peace. Being in the kitchen with Teddy changes that. I'm still all of those things but the energy level is taken up a notch. Instead of just thinking about what to do with the figs I brought in, we would excitedly bounce ideas off each other. Neither of us likely finished a sentence and it was really sort of hectic-sounding but it was just a result of Teddy's infectious energy.
It's impossible not to get excited about food when talking to him. It has always been my favorite thing about being in the kitchen with Teddy. I'm already passionately in love with food but somehow being in that kitchen with someone else who's got that same love for it just makes it more special. The only thing I could equate it to is the feeling of being at home in my mom's kitchen talking food with her. And she's the person that taught me how to cook, taught me to love food, and is hugely responsible for my even being willing to tackle the crazy adventure of diving into a restaurant job with no professional cooking experience or culinary training. So that's really saying something about what it means to be around the guy.
So whether or not that translates as “annoying” or “fake” on tv is something I can't impartially judge. I do know that not one moment of the time I've spent with him talking about food or cooking it has ever felt forced or inauthentic. Maybe it's just something that takes some time to learn how to translate on screen.
The thing that has bothered me the most about the show so far is the issue of “integrity” that has come up in the two most recent episodes. I'm sure some will point out that the two contestants he's “thrown under the bus” have been women and deduce something misogynistic in his person. Well, I can go ahead and say that's 100% false based on my experience. As I've mentioned on this blog before and as I'm sure many people know, the world of professional kitchens is largely a boys' club. The key players are usually all men, the language is vulgar, and vulnerability or softness are not cherished qualities. It's a balls to the wall kind of place and you either learn how to stay under the radar and try to just keep afloat, you falter and crack under the pressure and stress of it, or you learn to dish it right back and show every one in there that you are a force to be reckoned with. That's just how it is.
Teddy is the exception. Make no mistake, I love all the guys I work with. But as one of two women currently working in our kitchen and the only one who works line shifts with the guys AND has slightly higher level of responsibility, I get my fair share of shit. Whether it's the comments when I come in wearing a tank top before I put on my chef jacket (because our kitchen is about a 1000 degrees in the summer) or the all-too-obvious jokes after someone asks how many (duck) breasts I have left, I deal with it all. Some days I handle it better than others. I can say the one person who's never made me feel like I'm any different because I lack a Y-chromosome is Teddy. Which is huge. Because, trust me, if the person in charge of the kitchen sets a misogynistic tone all those comments and jokes become SO much worse. Fortunately, I've never felt like I was judged by anything other than the food I'm putting out.
With that out of the way let me tackle the larger issue of character that has been raised on the show. There's a fair amount I can't say because it's not my story to tell but I can note that, as mentioned in the opening caveat, they can do wonders with editing. A lot of stuff doesn't make the cut. They edit for what is most entertaining and for what creates the most controversy. So there, I've gotten that out of the way.
To move on to what I personally think about Teddy's integrity, I can just say that anyone with any level of doubt or questioning about it should just move on, they won't find what they are looking for here. Does he call people out on things when he feels someone isn't pulling their weight? Absolutely. It's what you have to do as a chef. And that's the big difference between a chef and a “Food Network Star.” If you're a home cook you rarely have to call anyone out on “pulling their weight” because you're the only one pulling anything. Do I say this to demean home cooks? No. That's how I started. It's only by choice and Teddy's questionable judgement to take a chance on someone completely untested that I cook for a living now.
But I do feel it's important to realize that a chef's job in a kitchen is to make sure every cook is handling their station and doing the best work possible. Because if one person isn't, it can screw up the entire service...for EVERYONE. If you go down in flames on the grill station because you can't time your tickets or plate your dishes then you aren't the only person affected. And maybe that's the part of what Teddy means when he says he's “coming at you from the mind of a chef” that people are missing.
A good chef can recognize the weaknesses in cooks and will do one or both of the following: call them out on it and try to make them a better cook or just step in and do what needs to be done to get the dish out. If you're a great chef you can do both of those without crushing a struggling cook's spirit and while working with them in that moment and beyond to get them to where they need to be. Teddy does that better than pretty much anyone I know. He can be the asshole when he needs to but he's right there afterwards to talk to you about what you did wrong, what to do next time and to show you hands on how to take it to the next level. In fact, if there's anything missing from his “culinary point of view” I'd say that he hasn't mentioned his skill at and love of teaching. He's a born teacher. I already had pretty good food knowledge when I started but that doesn't mean that every day I worked with him I didn't learn 10 or 12 new things and a way to do something better.
Unfortunately I think that part of “the mind of a chef” doesn't really mesh well with a cooking competition. It's a really different environment and it's hard, I'm sure, to find the balance between being the graceful competitor and wanting to be the chef that doesn't want to see things go down in flames. Even if it's not your food and even if it will make you more likely to win, it's hard to watch something not get plated in time.
To speak more specifically to the recent episode, “the crying episode” as I call it, it's tough to get stuck with something you're not that into. Dessert is a big one. Anyone who watches Top Chef knows that most chefs groan when confronted with the challenge of dessert. Pastry chefs are people I admire a ton because I just don't know that I can do what they do. And when called upon to make a dessert I usually approach it with the mindset of just trying to do the safest thing I can and the thing that requires the least amount of actual baking. Because baking is the devil. Seriously, it strikes fear into the heart of good cooks everywhere. Those who can do both are truly to be respected.
So I get why he was less than enthusiastic about doing dessert and why he probably felt he deserved credit for the meatloaf more so than the dessert. It seems the meatloaf took a lot of time and a much heavier investment that left little time to deal with the dessert. And also, it's really hard to get psyched about doing something you generally don't enjoy.
Perhaps it came out the wrong way in the elimination portion of the show but I don't think it had anything to do with wanting to hurt a teammate or take undeserved credit. I think it was likely the reaction that most cooks would have: if I spent 50 out of 60 minutes making a meatloaf and 10 on a dessert, the meatloaf was my dish. Sure, you have to stick with what you said you would do even if it blows up in your face and so maybe it can be perceived as a lack of integrity that he tried to back out of that in front of the judges. However, I can say with every fiber of my being that dishonesty and betrayal are not who he is as a person and it's not something he regularly practices.
I suppose we'll see what happens as the show goes on. Hopefully things get better from here on out and I'm obviously rooting for the guy who gave me a chance to do what I love for a living to win the whole damn thing. But I just wanted to set the record straight, if only for the few who read this blog, about the Teddy Folkman I know.